Cody WY and Yellowstone Part 1

Cody WY and Yellowstone

We stayed a couple of nights in Cody waiting for our reservation date in Yellowstone. 

Last year, constant readers know, we had a flat tire on the way to Durango CO.  Well, the tire bought to replace the flat went bad on us.  We ordered a new tire on Walmart online and needed to pick it up at the Walmart in Cody. 

What an experience.  One never knows when one pulls into the Walmart parking lot what one will find.  This one had the sculpture below.  A mere $75K, in case you are looking for a new yard ornament. 

When we inquired about the tire, no one at Walmart knew anything about it.  They recommended I check the website to see where it was.  Well, two days later, we discovered the tire in the Walmart store in Cody WY and it had been there the whole time.  Hhhhmmmm.   But we got the tire on the truck and we are back with four good tires now. 

Cody is an interesting little town, full of Buffalo Bill sites and history.  The Irma Hotel was built for Bill’s girlfriend, Irma.  

Without its close proximity to Yellowstone, Cody would be a much different place.  I doubt that the Buffalo Bill association would be enough to draw thousands of tourists through there every year. 

As we started up the highway to Yellowstone, we stopped at a memorial to firefighters killed in a wildfire in 1937.  At the time I write this, there are five wildfires in Yellowstone. Incredibly 

dangerous work for anyone brave enough to attempt it.  

There are wildfires all over the West and probably not nearly enough fire crews to work them.  I overheard two ladies’ conversation in the grocery store in Cody.  One asked the other, “Did  you get burned out?”  Obviously, the second lady had a home in the fire area.  Fortunately, the answer was “No.”  As we left Yellowstone through the south entrance, we encountered smoke from the fires burning around Jackson.

There are signs and posters EVERYWHERE warning of the danger of the Yellowstone bears.  (Note:  We saw NO BEARS in Yellowstone.)  Curiously, there is no information about mountain lions, and I was sure there must be cougars somewhere in the park, with the large deer and elk populations.  I asked at one of the visitor centers and was told the cougars are in the far north of the park and are rarely seen in the visitor-heavy area.  Good thing.

It is an unsettling feeling to look across the landscape here and see the plumes of steam from the vents.  You get the sense you are standing on top of an unimaginable power source which could blow at any time.  Yellowstone (as you all know) is a super volcano which hasn’t erupted in 600,000 years.  I am sure there are monitors all over the park but since Mt. St. Helens blew up without warning, so much for monitoring. 

On the Road to Yellowstone

After Glacier National Park, we are working our way over to Yellowstone National Park, another bucket list item for me.  

Faithful readers may remember the visit to the Little Big Horn Battlefield last year.  Since our route took us in that direction, we stopped again and saw a few things we missed last time.  

I was somehow of the opinion that there is a town at Garryowen MT...nope, just a gas station with a couple of interesting signs.

This is a memorial to one of Marcus Reno's soldiers, found in 1926, long after the battle.  No way to identify him.

Short Grass Prairie

I took the photo below from the 7th Ranch RV Park south of the battlefield.  We saw miles and miles of this in a landscape little changed from what Custer saw in 1876...except there were no Native American warriors.

When we  left the Garryowen area, we drove south to Sheridan and stayed one night.  The next day we went back north to turn west on US Alternate Highway 14, a route through the mountains which took us over to Cody.  Another incredibly beautiful drive through National Forest and mountains.  When we finally reached the top, there was a highway sign stating that there is a 10% grade for miles, all the way down.  Lots of emergency ramps for out-of-control vehicles and they all looked well used.

Found our way to Cody WY and were ready to slow down for a bit. Well, maybe not. Our first full day here we drove the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway and turned onto the Beartooth Pass All American Highway.  

Chief Joseph Highway

Beartooth Highway

Not a road for the faint of heart.  Steep, twisting, lots of switchbacks, just wide enough for two vehicles to pass.  Even Mike was tired at the end of it.  (It's one of the few places we've been that he hadn't already seen.)  Relatively few vehicles on it, as opposed to the Manhattan-at-rush-hour we saw on Going to the Sun Road at Glacier Park.  Easily just as beautiful and a whole bunch more fun without thousands of others on the road with you.

When we got back to Cody, it was only early afternoon so we headed west to Yellowstone to scope out the park where we will stay for five days beginning Friday.  

There is a large lake on the way to Yellowstone created by the Buffalo Bill Dam.  As you can see from the photo, it's very beautiful.  Both of us were surprised that we saw no boating of any kind on the lake; no kayaks, no canoes, no rowboats, no rafts, nothing.  And it's a very large lake.

Yellowstone National Park

We found the RV park easily and were returning to Cody when we stopped at this scenic outlook.  We had noticed what we thought was smoke from a fire just to the right of this photo.  Nope, it was a thermal vent.  What we thought was smoke was steam.  There's a fracture line along this part of the lake and you can see these little vents occasionally.  

The sign in the photo says that the lake's surface is so cold you would die quickly of hypothermia if you fell in; its bottom is so hot from the steam vents you would be scalded (assuming you hadn't drowned first...the lake is 480 feet deep at it deepest point.)

 

Back in Lewis and Clark territory now.

Did you know Montana has ferries which transport vehicles across the mighty Missouri River?  Neither did I.  Mike has been in this area before and knew about them.  We took the day today (8/3) to travel north of Winifred MT to the Stafford McClelland Ferry.  

Missouri Breaks

Stafford McClelland Ferry

The cable in the photo is one of the ones which are used by the ferry.  Current is very swift here.

Anyone who winds up here has REALLY wanted to see it.  It is 17 miles on a gravel road from Winifred.  We drove up the ferry landing and wondered how to get it to come pick us up.  I finally saw a mail box with a sign "CALL HERE."  There was a small walkie-talkie in the mailbox I used to reach the ferry operator on the other shore.

(Note to the Downeys:  this ferry is a much smaller version of the one in Ireland.  Can accommodate two pickup trucks.)

We chatted with the ferry operator during the "crossing."  He said he takes about 100 vehicles a week during the busiest part of the season.  Some are local people but most are just drifters like us.

We drove a few miles on the other side of the river just to see what was there.  Scary road.  Tom (the ferry operator) said you can't use this road at all if it has been raining.  Turns to slimy mud and it's quite steep and twisting.

We are on the top of the cliffs on the north side of the river.

East Glacier Without Fire

Last year we could not complete the Going to the Sun Road because a raging forest fire.  Yesterday we traversed the road from east to west.  Beautiful day, beautiful drive.  We had no more than started up the road when a bear ambled across the road a hundred yards or so ahead of us.  By the time I recovered from my surprise and got the camera, he/she had disappeared into the woods.  Good thing the dogs didn't see it.

The day is coming (soon) when individual traffic will be barred on this road.  It's a traffic nightmare.  Too many cars, shuttle buses, bicyclists (!), motorcyclists.  The road is barely wide enough to accommodate two cars passing and it's bumper to bumper.  Let's hope it is soon.  The Park Service could just limit the traffic during the peak months, June, July, August.  But something really bad is going to happen.  

We tried twice to get into the Logan Pass Lodge.  Rangers wouldn't even let cars into the lot.  

The most interesting shuttle bus company.

The last day, we went to the north end of the park in hopes that the crowds would be fewer.  Nope. Wanted to have lunch at the lodge at Many Glaciers.  Not a parking spot open in a large lot.  

Many Glaciers

Last year's East Glacier Park wildfire was devastating.  Here's what it looks like a year later.

There are miles and miles of the park which look like this.  It will take decades for it to recover.

Farewell, Canada, and billions of mosquitoes.

Packing up today to head back to the States.  We will stop at Fernie BC for one night and then cross the border on Friday.

Another whimsical photo for my collection:  saw this in a gas station in Canmore.

We spent yesterday in Banff having lunch at the luxurious Banff Springs Hotel.  There is a statue of William Cornelius Van Horn (see below) with a great quote:  "We can't export the scenery so we will have to import the tourists."  

This is a drop-dead spectacular hotel.  The grounds are manicured, planted, mowed, whatever you can imagine and it's all beautiful. Inside it is just as impressive.  

There is an open air area just outside one of the hotel's bars where you can order lunch and enjoy the scenery Van Horn admired.  Oddly enough, the food we ordered was excellent.  Usually when you have a view as good as this one, the food stinks. 

Out of curiosity, I checked the hotel's website to see what the going rate is:  the "cheapest" room is $569 Canadian and the suite is $3,500 Canadian PER DAY.   I wondered if I could book a maid's closet.

We stopped at a pull-out on the way back to Golden where there is a model and explanation of the wildlife overpasses.  

A few final thoughts on this part of British Columbia:  

• If you are considering a visit here during the summer, a word of advice:  DON'T.  As you can probably see in the photos, traffic and crowds are nearly unbearable.  We tried three times to go to Lake Louise and could never get a place to park.  Locals said the time to come is September, while the weather is still good and most of the crowds are gone.
• The local mosquitoes are large, voracious, and very numerous.  Bring DEET, a lot of DEET.
• We kept seeing signs by the highway/street for TEXAS GATE.  Finally figured out that a Texas Gate is what Texans call a cattle guard.  There are everywhere and very rough.  Serve to keep the deer/elk/moose populations out of the towns and off the roads.

Kansas Girl Meets Glacier Ice

Sunday, July 24

In Jasper National Park, south of the town of Jasper, lies the 
Columbia Icefield.  As we drove north on Highway 93, we saw one glacier after another, but these didn't prepare me for the Athabaskan Glacier, formed by the Columbia Icefield.  

Mike had already taken the tour of the glacier years ago when he was here so he hung out in the parking lot while I bought my ticket for the glacier tour and the Skywalk.  (We met a guy in the park in Golden who knows the engineer who designed the Skywalk.)  The parking lot and the center were absolutely packed with visitors.

A bus takes you up to the area where the snow cats are waiting to take you to the glacier.  My guide was a very handsome young man from France who seems to drift around the world.  He speaks perfect English and, of course, perfect French, so being a guide in Canada is a natural fit. 

The Icefield

Tourists on the glacier.

Snow Cat

It was partly sunny when we arrived on the glacier but in the next few minutes, sleet started to pelt everyone.  Going back to the snow cat was popular.

Thomas, the guide, told us that the snow cats are custom made at an average cost of $1.2 million (Canadian).  Each tire weighs 400 pounds and costs about $5,000.  No wonder they charge so much for the tours, about $65 USD in my case.

Keeping the road safe for the snow cats is a major undertaking, as the glacier is constantly changing and re-arranging itself.  Thomas said a crew goes up every morning and several times a day to inspect the route and, if necessary, make changes with dozers.  Cracks can open up in the course of one day.  Bad for business to lose a snow cat with 30 people on it in a crevasse. 

There were four or five loads of tourists on the glacier at one time.  Many appeared to be on tours from China, Japan, and India.  In my group were three young ladies from China (I presume) who clearly didn't understand "glacier."  They were dressed in flimsy light clothes with sandals.  On the way to the snow cats they chit chatted with each other, and they stayed together on the glacier.  

The snow cat took us back down to where the bus picked us up for the ride to the Skywalk.  The bus route goes past the visitor center and down the highway a mile or two. As the bus passed the visitor center, the young ladies, seated up front, all jumped up and started yelling at the driver.  Bless her heart, she tried to calm them down and continue with her presentation about the Skywalk.  She finally gave up and said "I think I will sing a song."  And she did, one with about 10 verses.  As soon as the bus arrived at the Skywalk, the three young ladies stormed off the bus and stomped to another bus waiting to take people back to the visitor center.  So...they either got on the wrong bus (unlikely, as guides check the tickets at a couple of places) or they didn't understand there were two stops.  I stopped to talk with the driver and told her she handled it beautifully.  She was frazzled!

The Skywalk is a new addition to the park, built after Mike was here.  I did notice there were a few people clinging to the railing on the part with the "invisible" floor.  The Skywalk is about 800 feet above the canyon floor but my photo through the floor doesn't give you the same effect as standing there staring down...and down...and down.

View from the Skywalk.

View through the floor.

O Canada!

Our miserable weather has preceded us into Canada.  We crossed the border and stayed the first night in Cranbrook BC.  Overcast, gloomy, but not raining.  On to Golden BC the next morning.  More clouds, but no rain.  (Deming NM gets 350 days of sunshine a year.  I wonder how much this area gets.)

Columbia Lake

Found the park in Golden. It ties for the most dilapidated, unmaintained mess I've stayed in.  The guy at the front desk said he took over in April, found that someone had broken into the office, stolen everything, including the computer reservations system, and there you are.  Someone has used this place as a cash cow for decades, putting $0 into maintenance.  On the plus side, however, the WiFi works well and the laundry equipment is new. 

Front office guy said there is new management and things will improve.  I hope new management has a bunch of cash and a lot of patience.  There is so much wrong (including a surly, rude employee, not front office guy) that it will take a couple of years of very hard work to put things right.  

We tried to go to Lake Louise our first full day in Golden.  Since we got a late start, it was after noon before we arrived.  All we could see was cars, cars, cars, tourists.  There were cars parked along the road for probably over a mile from the lake.  When we finally got to the there, we turned around and left.  

Flags of Canada and Alberta

Years ago on a trip to this area, Mike found a pair of duck shoes (rubber waterproof slip-ons) at Canadian Tire.  Since there was a Canadian Tire in the next town, Cranmore, across the provincial line, we headed over there.  As our luck would have it, the inexpensive ones have been discontinued;  BUT there was one pair left in a sales bin, in Mike's size!  Mission accomplished. 

The TransCanada Highway is the main (only?) road traversing the country.  There are parts of it, especially locally, that look like the interstate in the US.  Canada is going to great lengths to protect wildlife in the vicinity of the highway, such as very high fencing, cattle guards, and wildlife overpasses. It gives the wildlife a way to safely cross the highway and makes the highway much safer for humans, as deer-elk-bear-car collisions are common and deadly.

Wildlife overpass on Canada Highway 1,

We started out to Glacier Park on Saturday,  As we went west, the clouds got thicker and thicker and thicker.  By the time we reached the park, the area was completely socked in and raining.  

The roof of the visitor center is planted with local flora.  Interesting and very attractive.  But that was all we could see, so we turned around and went back to the park.

Years ago, Mike traveled through this area so he has already seen all the sights and knows what is worth the time.  On Sunday, a decent day in the a.m., we tried Lake Louise again, as a neighbor said he had been there early and the traffic was low.  Off we went.  On the way, we stopped at a roadside pull-off to learn about the spiral tunnels.

Spiral Tunnels

Entrance/Exit to one of the tunnels. 

Lake Louise

Got to the lake the second time but still had problems with cars and parking.  Mike dropped me off at the entrance to the hotel while he drove around.  I wandered off to take the photos below.  And photos don't do justice to the magical color of this lake, a silvery turquoise blue.   A VERY EXPENSIVE HOTEL sits at the edge of the lake and the grounds are beautifully planted.

Fairmont Hotel

Lupines

Lake Louise

We still had the afternoon so we headed up to Jasper National Park.  Will write a new post, as this was a great adventure.  Have lots of photos.